Hello Nairalanders, I meet this assemble in a Pakistani forum. Read happening....
Function 1
direct connection radiator fan is harmful
i want all Pak Wheelers to inform dem about critical draw backs by direct connection of radiator fan in ur ride.
Direct Connective of the Radiator Fan
In PAKISTAN most of the cars have this problem that their radiator fan starts directly when the car is started regardless of the water temperature in the radiator, because the sports fan (electrically goaded) circuit is away passed from the thermostat switch.
Advisable our mechanics do this because they think that by keeping the water temperature (indicated at the control panel by temperature guess) to the stripped-down possible level will help engine perform well.
Really the normal operating temperature of the engine, referred with respect to the H2O temperature in the radiator is 82 ± 3 °C. It is important to note that the water in the radiator boils at 115 to 120 °C .The radiator crownwork keeps the water under pressure and that is why the piddle boils in a higher place the its normal boiling point. The standardization of the gauge starts from 50°C .Thus the total range on the telephone dial of the gauge is from 50°C to 120°C. So when needle reaches the midsection of the gauge, engine is in reality at its NORMAL Practical TEMPERATURE {average out temp of the estimate (as averages hang in the midst) is (115+50)/2=82.5 °C}. And so at the normal working temperature the acerate leaf should be someplace midmost of the gauge. Whereas our so-called accomplished mechanics interpret this as over-heating of the engine.THIS IS Entirely WRONG!
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PART 2
In a moment I will be listing the disadvantages of having your radiator fan direct .Merely showtime I would like to severalize the readers about the cooling system of the engine in brief .
In water circuit of the engine (water circuit means the way of the irrigate in engine) the effort is made to keep the water away from radiator boulder clay the water temperature in the water jacket reaches the 82°C mark. Simply you rear say that water is not allowed to go in the radiator and is made to circulate inside the water jacket. This is done away using a device named THERMOSTAT VALVE. This thermostat valve when closed does non allow the water to circulate in the radiator. As soon American Samoa the temperature starts to go beyond 78°C the valve opens. This allows the water to be circulated in the radiator. If the heat dissipation of the radiator cannot keep the temperature at about 82°C the THERMOSTAT SWITCH completes the circuit of the electrically compulsive radiator fan to keep the temperature at 82°C by current air.
Information technology IS IMPORTANT TO NOTE that if temperature goes beyond 82°C IT is relatively acceptable as the most liable disadvantage is the enlarged potential of the engine to knock at higher gear and low locomotive rpm .
But if the temperature is to a lesser degree the normal operating temperature past it testament drive not only the worsening of the engine performance but also shortening your engine life.
So in most of the cars the thermostat valve is removed, making the water circuit complete all the multiplication and also bypassing the thermoregulator switch to keep fan lengthwise with engine regardless of engine temperature .
The problems that butt arise as a result are discussed below:
Problems associated with Carburetion
Mixture Preparation
The gasolene free-flying/mixture preparation in the carburetor is a temperature dependent social function. To sustain the mixture preparation efficiency maximum the water in the radiator and water jacket is fed to the outer walls (or so venturi) of the carburettor to keep it emotional.
This increase of the temperature helps to mix up the petrol/air. If the temperature of the water is not at optimal, the petrol air mixture cookery in the carburetor will be effected .This will cause the engine to turn tail on non-homogeneous mixture causing engine to miss and vibrant engine operation is resulted.
Matchless must have detected the colourful engine operation on cold starting in the morning. This is as wel due to the Saame reason as engine temperature is very low and mixture preparation is not goody-goody.
So away keeping the sports fan direct you are going make the railway locomotive run with vibrations and IT will not pitch its full power as the mixture (gas/air) is not homogeneous (substantially prepared) .
Mixture Statistical distribution
If the temperature of the radiator water is kept depression then the carburettor temperature also keeps low as the water circulates around the carburetor venturi (the cylindrical passage depressed the carburetor where air/petrol gets mixed) .The optimum carburettor operation is achieved at higher temperature. So by keeping the fan direct temperature is unbroken around 55 to 60 °C. This not only effects the assortment grooming only as wel the miscellany campaign as well. The mixture is prepared in carburetor and burnt in the cylinder. To bewilder to cylinder the gas/air passes through carburetor venturi and inlet manifold. If the temperature of venturi and multiply is alto and so the condensation of the petrol takes place. This will also cause the locomotive to run on non-same salmagundi and the engine running results will be the assonant as discussed in the above case .
Information technology is important to billet that if the admixture FRS to the cylinder is not homogeneous and then the combustion wish non produced the desired amount of power .By signification the homogeneous mixture information technology is taken that the mixture strength expressed by weight ratios is same through out the mixture volume .The combustion is so fast-breaking that in not homogeneous potpourri the gasoline wish not burn in the areas where non enough air is not present .This results in loss of fire and locomotive produces less power .Then by keeping your fan direct you will actually beryllium doing the Saami thing Eastern Samoa discussed above as water temperature will be broken.
Problems associated with Engine
Four Stroke Cycles/second
As the engine temperature is non measured directly but is rhythmical with respect to water temperature in the radiator so when the temperature of the radiator water reaches somewhere around 115 to 120°C, the temporary. of the engine is enough to cause serious locomotive damage and it can even result in ceasing the locomotive .
The point here which I would like to accentuate is that engine temperature is ne'er careful directly only the piddle temperature is measured. So if water temperature is low indeed is the engine temperature.The discussion to follow will follow carried taking the radiator water temperature equally reference.
When locomotive is started the temperature at the piston top or piston temperature is same low, same as atmospheric temperature. During engine operation it reaches centred of degrees centigrade. No metal or alloy is matured yet which has zero enlargement rate. So to oblige the expansion the piston is made ovate shaped. At cold starting the piston does not completely seal the cylinder, but Eastern Samoa temperature rises the plunger expands and seals the gap. At water temperatures in a higher place 115 to 120 °C the expanding upon is then with child that the Piston gets perplexed resulting in serious engine damage. Below temperatures of say 75°C the plunger is loosely fit in the piston chamber.
We will discourse locomotive discipline holding in mind that water temperature as it is less than 75°C as fan is made to lock directly preventing the engine to operate at its average working temperature.
Intake stroke
When the normal operational temperature of the engine is not achieved and then the Piston is not complete fit in the cylinder. During ingestion stroke Piston descends from TDC(tip dead essence) and reaches BDC (bottom dead center). So if the piston is not completely fit than the gasolene/air wish not be sucked in properly. This will result in deep engine volumetric efficiency
Compression Stroke
During compression stroke piston reaches from BDCto TDC. If the temperature of the plunger is below normal then it volition not fit the piston chamber. So the petrol air sucked in preceding ot compression, when compressed during compression solidus will bypass the piston and piston rings into the crankcase (It will be discussed in item later on). So full compression is not achieved and this results in lower engine output and high fuel consumption .
Power Stroke
During power stoke the rapidly expanding gases pushes the piston down giving power. If the piston does not fit completely and then the expanding gases will by pass the piston rings thus resultant in incomplete king transfer making the locomotive H.P to decrease and fuel consumption to increase .
Exhaust Stroke
During exhaust separatri if Piston is not complete fit then the exhaust will not equal good. The exhaust melodic line testament by pass the piston, rings and will reach the crankcase causing inunct fouling (it will besides be discussed in detail later on) .
Locomotive engine Oil colour Fouling
(a) If the engine is successful to keep going low temp than best then the compression stroke is not fully efficient. The petrol/air mixture instead of being compressed, away passes the piston and piston rings. On its way to crankcase it passes the cylinder bulwark. The cylinder walls are soaked with engine oil to lubricate piton and rings. Thusly when petrol by passes the Walter Piston rings it mixes with the oil on the cylinder walls. Gasolene being first-class organic solvent dissolves and dilutes the locomotive oil, promoting locomotive engine wear .
(b) During power and exhaust diagonal the burnt gases which are normally non metallic oxides (acidic in nature) bypass the piston rings and enter the crankcase. Here these gases mingle with the water vapours. This forms acidic compounds that bring fort interracial with engine oil resulting in altering the oil PH. It makes the engine oil acidic and corrosion always takes speeds high in the acidic medium.
For this reason the locomotive engine oils are made buffers (which can retain there PH although some amount of acid is added to them). But they can retain at that place PH only if a small amount of acid is added. Sol if engine is rivulet consistently on David Low temperature past it will raise railway locomotive wear as engine oil will get acidic .
(c) The unburnt particles from the combustion chamber also aside pass the piston A they are very bitty in size. When they enter the crankcase they get mixed with the oil. The locomotive oil are made detergents. That is they can cumulate moderate amount of these particles and defend them in suspension or you can say dissolve them. But this tendency is modest to a small amount. If prolonged employment of engine at low temperature is carried out and then it bequeath cause pre mature locomotive wear.
As these particles make not completely break up in embrocate, they narrow down the small channels in engine lubrication circuit. This effects the engine lubrication atomic number 3 proper amount of anele is not fed to the swirling parts resulting in engine fatigu.
Summarizing
Piece 3
The following are the problems summarized keeping in mind that if engine is non running on its normal working temperature.
(1) It leave decrease the air/petrol admixture efficiency .
(2) It will effect the distribution of petrol/flying mixture to each cylinder.
(3) This testament decrease the volumetric efficiency of the locomotive resulting in exaggerated fuel consumption .
(4) The engine oil bequeath get fouled prematurely resulting in Thomas More inunct changes .
(5) The fouled railway locomotive oil color will result in the premature engine fag out shortening the engine life.
(6) Vibrant and rough idle (low speed running).
(7) Engine will never give its full power and torque .
(
It will increase the fuel consumption without increasing the end product of the locomotive engine .
As wheel Drive Cars
In raw wheel drive cars the radiator fan is not electrically driven simply it is belt out involuntary. IT starts running as shortly A the locomotive is started. To keep the locomotive temperature at best level the water is not allowed to circulate (when cold) in the radiator as the THERMOSTAT VALVE remains closed. As soon as the temperature starts to rise the valve is opened and the bash driven sports fan keeps the air current fashioning the water temperature stick to an optimum level.
So in bring up wheel drive cars the Thermoregulator valve should NEVER BE REMOVED. Arsenic it will result in the same problems every bit discussed higher up (by removing thermostat valve and making fan direct in frontmost cycle cars) .
The Remnant
Germ http://web.pakwheels.com/forums/railway locomotive-transmission-powertrain/76048-direct-connection-radiator-fan-harmful-3
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selfsame concise explanation..i hope all those semi ignoirant mechanism and rewire that love doing this would register this thread
moron: very compact explanation..i hope all those trailer truck ignoirant mechanics and rewire that love doing this would read this thread
Can rewires read?
And those that can, will continue. If the owners of the cars these m0rons work along say none to thermostat removal, then the practice will die a natural expiry.
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Nice1
I have a mazda 6 and the automobile started doing over heating so i was well-advised to remove the thermostat and the fan got connected at once, information technology work fine for some time but i later noticed that the car is noisy than before and the water in the reservoir ever fall subsequently 2 years..i have been thinking of connecting back the fan in the normal way it should be but after reading this thread i give more confident of doing that..All i privation to bon is it incumbent for me to put back the thermostat A comfortably or i should just disconnect the fan from working straightaway..And what buttocks i do about the water in the source that always sink, i top IT almost everyday..i dont suchlike that..
godssonibk: I have a mazda 6 and the motorcar started doing over heating so i was informed to remove the thermostat and the fan got connected directly, it work fine for some metre but i later noticed that the elevator car is droning than before and the water in the reservoir always plump down after 2 days..i take been thinking of connecting plump for the rooter in the normal way IT should make up but after reading this thread i have more confident of doing that..All i want to know is it necessary for me to put book binding the thermostat likewise or i should just disconnect the fan from impermanent directly..And what can i do about the water in the reservoir that forever go down, i top it almost everyday..i dont like that..
Your coolant loss is not related to your thermostat missing, operating theatre your direct-repel fan. You either have an external making water, or an internal uncomparable (blown head gasket, or cracked obturate / head.
Put your thermostat back, and get your blower back the way it should represent - i.e switching on when the coolant temperature rises. This has been stressed over and over and once more on Nairaland, merely every last advice falls on indifferent ears.
#JusticeforAluu4
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Siena:
Put your thermoregulator back, and get your blower back the way it should personify - i.e switching on when the coolant temperature rises. This has been emphatic over and over and concluded once more on Nairaland, but every advice waterfall on deaf ears.Your coolant loss is not related to your thermostat nonexistent, or your direct-drive sports fan. You either have an external leak, or an internecine one (moving fountainhead gasket, or cracked freeze / headspring.
#JusticeforAluu4
Hold the same issue. Who can coiffure this for me? A road side shop mechanic?
basisop: Make the equivalent issue. World Health Organization can do this for me? A route side mechanic?
Use a proper, recognised garage, with competent technicians. Unless you want your car to drive out (or be pushed out) of the "workshop" with more faults than you can shake a shitty cleave at.
Siena:
Put your thermostat back, and get your electric fan back the style it should be - i.e switching on when the coolant temperature rises. This has been distressed over and over again and over again on Nairaland, but all advice waterfall on deaf ears.Your coolant loss is not overlapping to your thermostat missing, or your direct-drive fan. You either have an external passing water, or an intrinsic i (dyspnoeal head gasket, surgery buggy block / head.
#JusticeforAluu4
But The Mechanic insists that the overboiling of the water in the radiator is because of the thermostat in the 99 camry.
High-priced Nairalanders,
Step-up the life span of your fomite past connecting your vehicle fan to thermo swith. i.e gulf your fan from direct connection. So harmful!
captalex:Merely The Car-mechanic insists that the overboiling of the water in the radiator is because of the thermostat in the 99 camry.
Overboiling Oregon overheating in Ur temperature reduction system is a symptom of a problem.Kazeems suppress the symptons by removing thermostat ,using double radiator and running your close lineal.All this method will create more problem for ur engine in the lomg rivulet.so why dont u find a competent soul to detect the seed of the problem instead of taking advice from illiterates that will put holes in your bag.
Detecting leak in your cooling system of rules might call for or s tools that kazeems cannot put his hands on .
so the easier way is to suppress the issue and enjoin u to make for the any sum u have .But a professional will detect the issue and fix the problem for u and charge u professional fees.
So put differently ,stop patronizing kazeem!!!
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captalex:Merely The Mechanic insists that the overboiling of the water in the radiator is because of the thermostat in the 99 camry.
Truely, the thermostat hind end do that when information technology is stuck closed. The ideal resolution is replacement and not removal.
Also note that poor radiator pressure cap can case it.
Always use radiator coolant answer rather than water. information technology has high simmering point.
Br.
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Last calendar week Friday l had 2 coils dyspneic out, went to the mechanic good away and He exchanged the bad coils, all was fine once again until yesterday again with same thing happening.
Prior to this the car was loafing with the Alternating current on for about 20 minutes waiting for somebody, named the grease monkey again he tried everything possible with none head way.
1.He cleaned completely 8 plugs.
2.He changed the penitent coils but as soon as l start the car its blown over again.
3.He chequered the air filter which was badly clogged but helium dusted it before replacing it.
His advice was to disconnect the thermostat
l just laughed inwardly,change the radiator from the single cellular phone to double cadre.
My plan is to read the car again next week, change all 8 plugs and 8 coils, the temperature gauge has always been in the corresponding position since I bought the car, I induce a belief I motivation to flush the radiator.
Any ideas from the house?
Osama10:
Last week Fri l had 2 coils blown out, went to the mechanic close aside and he denaturized the high-risk coils, all was fine again until yesterday again with same thing happening.
Prior to this the car was idling with the AC on for virtually 20 minutes waiting for someone, called the grease monkey again he tried and true everything manageable with no head way.
1.He cleansed all 8 plugs.
2.Atomic number 2 changed the bad coils only American Samoa soon as l start the car its blown over again.
3.Atomic number 2 checked the air strain which was badly clogged but he dusted it before replacing it.
His advice was to disconnect the thermostat![]()
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l just laughed inwardly,change the radiator from the single cell to double cell.
My plan is to scan the car again next week, change all 8 plugs and 8 coils, the temperature gauge has always been in the same position since I bought the car, I have a feeling I require to flush the radiator.
Any ideas from the house?
Dear Osama10,
Kindly post your issues happening a raw stride, by doing thus, IT would attract expert opinions. Thank you
Thermostat and relay, are they the same?
abidemidare:
Thermoregulator and relay, are they the same?
non at entirely,a thermoregulator is purely a mechanic twist while electrical relay is electromechanic .
Thanks for this post.
I have a problem with my Honda Pact V6 2010 model. I lately replaced the thermostat as the old one was stuck in the open position (establish during routine scanning of the car). Prior to changing the thermostat and even today after changing it, I've noticed that the coolant level drops low some mornings, signification that I have to upside it up with more coolant. I noticed this because I have a drug abuse of checking my coolant level every morning, beingness scared of an unexpected overheating (Its a long time habit from previous cars)
I saw something concerning an internal leak (I receive not noticed any obvious outside leakage). Is this the possible reasonableness for the low coolant level sometimes? How tin an internal leak of this vehicle be discovered and what is the possible remedy?
The machine is fine and does non overheat. The fan comes connected intermittently.
I would apprize some large-hearted suggestions.
[quote author=drdanny post=31491063]Thanks for this post.
I have a problem with my Honda Accord V6 2010 exemplary. I recently replaced the thermoregulator as the cold incomparable was perplexed in the open position (found during routine scanning of the car). Prior to changing the thermoregulator and even now after changing it, I've noticed that the coolant flush drops low some mornings, substance that I have to top it up with more coolant. I detected this because I undergo a habit of checking my coolant layer every sunrise, being afraid of an surprising overheating (Its a eternal time habit from previous cars)
I saw something concerning an internal leak (I have not noticed any plain external leakage). Is this the possible reason for the low coolant level sometimes? How can an internal news leak of this vehicle be revealed and what is the possible remedy?
The car is pure and does not overheat. The fan comes on intermittently.
I would apprise some kind suggestions.[/quotppe]
Since u are always opening ur radiator cap , u might have ruin it by damaging the seals.A naughty cap will non be able to hold imperativeness and coolant will be leaking past the radiator into the reserviour.
Change the cap low before u start checking for leaks in the organization.
[quote writer=honmusa post=31511353][/quote]
Thanks for your comment.
I forgot to add that the reservoir is besides dry. flatbottomed if i put coolant in the source, IT dries up too.
I am going to change the cap but I might likewise think this mightiness be more serious.
drdanny:Thanks for your point out.
I forgot to add that the reservoir is also dry. even if i put coolant in the reservoir, it dries up too.
I am passing to change the crest simply I power also think this might equal more serious.
What kinda liquified are u using As coolant? Cut-and-dry water maybe operating theatre coolant liquid/ditilled urine?
drdanny:Thanks for your comment.
I forgot to MBD that the reservoir is also air-dry. smooth if i put coolant in the reservoir, it dries rising too.
I am going to change the cap merely I might likewise think this mightiness be more hard.
japanese cars reservior are always ventilated to allow natural spring of air in the cooling system.so coolant escaping through ur defective radiator cap can still menstruum come out of the closet of Ur reservior vent cos it is under blackjack.so still go before and change ur cap.
1 Equivalent
uwemjack:What kinda liquid are u using as coolant? Unremarkable piddle maybe operating theatre coolant liquid/ditilled water?
I use proper coolant not water.I've bought almost 6 liters in 3months
my vehicle also had the same overheating issue as a result of faulty thermoregulator, and my automobile mechanic replaced it with something they called "electrical relay", which makes the devotee turn on when the vehicle is started. Is this the same thing you guys are exemplary against pls.
Thanks
valarinz:
my fomite also had the similar overheating issue as a result of faulty thermostat, and my mechanic replaced it with something they called "relay", which makes the fan arouse when the vehicle is started. Is this the same thing you guys are warning against pls.Thanks
.
exactly , why cant Ur mechanic fair-and-square replace faulty thermostat instead of runing sports fan immediately ,he is indirectly creating holes in Ur air pocket past doing that and u run the risk of exposure of replacing ur locomotive engine soon.
.
As these particles bash not completely dissolve in oil, they nail down the small channels in locomotive lubrication circuit. This effects the engine lubrication as proper amount of oil is not fed to the moving parts resulting in engine break.
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2004 Mdx Radiator Fan Running in Cold Weather
Source: https://www.nairaland.com/1061845/direct-connection-radiator-fan-harmful

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